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Meat-cutting not lost art after all


Meat-cutting not lost art after all

By:  Tricia KeelsColumbus Crave  •  Thursday October 23, 2014 7:26 AMhttp://www.dispatch.com/

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ALEXIS RANDOLPH WITH SCOTT BOWMAN, CO-OWNER AND HEAD BUTCHER AT WEILAND'S MARKET

Scott Bowman is happy to see butchery on the rise again.

From customers seeking out relationships with the butcher at a local meat counter to interest in butchering classes (such as Bluescreek Farm Meats’ “Breaking Down the Hog” sessions at the North Market), people increasingly want to know where their meat is coming from.

“What we have going for us is that what’s old is new again — with younger consumers interested in ‘snout-to-tail’ eating and old-school professions like meat-cutting,” said Bowman, co-owner of Weiland’s Market in the Clintonville neighborhood and a meat cutter for 38 years.

He and his meat manager, Alexis Randolph — a former chef who is 18 months into her new trade — compare experiences.

What was your first job in the butcher store?

Bowman: I was 12 when I started at Wisch’s Butcher Shop in Cleveland as the cleanup boy and trimmer. I had to go through the carts of trimming and trim off all the usable meat for grinds. It was a very messy and bloody job. If the very thrifty Mr. Wisch saw even one speck of red meat in the bone barrel, he’d have a fit.

Randolph: I started with the grinds for burgers and sausages (at Weiland’s). Once I had a handle on that, I got to attend Scott’s “ Butcher 101” class. Scott’s class showed me the perfection in the presentation.

What do you see as the major difference between meat-cutting then and now?

Bowman: Back in the day, we hauled around hindquarters on our shoulders and hung them up on rails. I could break it down so much faster on a rail than on a table. Many young meat cutters have never seen hanging sides of beef. Everything comes in boxes now. As the large chain stores move toward “case-ready” meat, more of the job becomes meat stocker instead of meat cutter.

Randolph: Scott’s generation has so much knowledge. I am grateful to be the meat manager, but even with that title, I won’t claim to know everything.

What do you see for the future of the trade?

Bowman: To me, meat-cutting is both a technical skill and an art. I hope to see enough of us older guys pass along what we know to the younger generation before all of our knowledge is lost.

Randolph: I would like meat-cutting to go more gourmet. People are looking for easy, great-tasting food. I want to use my knowledge to develop recipes that are inexpensive, of good quality and easy to prepare — like the ready-to-braise meatballs I’m working on.



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