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Blockman


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Wow what a old meat saw
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Ross Sletten,  purchased the business in 2007 from Andy Lerberg

Ross began working at Lerberg’s in 1976 and, on a recent Sunday, three of his five kids—Brett, 18, Cassidy, 14, and Noah, 12—were all working at the store that anchors a corner of the main street in Ellendale, population around 600.

This long-time employee, now owner/manager, is clearly proud of his grocery store, which he claims is the oldest grocery store in Steele County and the second oldest in Minnesota.

That’s easy to believe when you walk upon the worn tongue-and-groove floor between the narrow aisles—of which there are three—pause to appreciate the tin ceiling, and listen to Ross. He’ll tell you about the tailor who had a shop in the store’s current-day upstairs office or about the eggs, ducks and chickens locals once traded for goods.

He’ll point out the store’s original coffee grinder resting on a shelf above the dairy section or direct your attention to the original wooden butcher block back in the meat department and still in use today (grandfathered in, he says).

Lerberg's Foods owner/manager Ross Sletten points out the original butcher block, which he still uses.

 


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Burgermeister


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RE: Wow what a old meat saw
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The most interesting thing to me is the wooden floor. In a meat dept!? How do you keep it clean? I guess it's from the old sawdust days? The saw may be old, but I bet it's better that the POS Biro we use. We have 3 saws and none of them are good. One doesn't work at all. The Hobart's guide wont adjust, and the Biro's blade keeps falling off the wheel. Is that an order gun on the block? Funny to see the old together with the new. 



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BANDSAW BOB


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Looks like an old Jim Vaughn saw, from the 1920's early 30's  chain drive from motor  before V-belts  when they made saws to last.   Burgermeister the Biro saw sounds like it could just have worn out or unevenly worn wheel cleaners  allowing fat to build up on the wheels during operation causing the blade to slip off   Next most common reason would be the wheel alignment, try putting a piece of cardboard or a penny behind the adjusting screw located directly below the center of the upper wheel to tip the top of the wheel back a little.  Next reason could be that the grooves on the wheels are worn out, like a worn car tire. The Hobart sounds like it is the upper guide bar that won't move up adn down ( ? ) if it is then try to slightly loosen up the bar tension screw located under the cap located about eye level  in line with the guide bar.     If you feel any of your saws are not safe to use   request the store call for saw repair service   or  report it to your shop safety steward.   



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Burgermeister


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BANDSAW BOB wrote:

Looks like an old Jim Vaughn saw, from the 1920's early 30's  chain drive from motor  before V-belts  when they made saws to last.   Burgermeister the Biro saw sounds like it could just have worn out or unevenly worn wheel cleaners  allowing fat to build up on the wheels during operation causing the blade to slip off   Next most common reason would be the wheel alignment, try putting a piece of cardboard or a penny behind the adjusting screw located directly below the center of the upper wheel to tip the top of the wheel back a little.  Next reason could be that the grooves on the wheels are worn out, like a worn car tire. The Hobart sounds like it is the upper guide bar that won't move up adn down ( ? ) if it is then try to slightly loosen up the bar tension screw located under the cap located about eye level  in line with the guide bar.     If you feel any of your saws are not safe to use   request the store call for saw repair service   or  report it to your shop safety steward.   

 Bob,

  Thanks for the suggestions. We have tried those things. The blades only come off during the instant the saw is turned on. If the blade can survive that, it will remain in it's proper place. The things you mentioned shouldn't make a good quality saw lose it's blade. So I can conclude that Biro is not a good band saw. I've never seen this happen with any other brand. It used to happen with the 2 Biro's at my previous store and it happens with the 2 Biro's at my present store. Sometimes it puts a big kink in the blade and we have to throw it away. 

On the Hobart, it's the guide that sets the thickness of what you're cutting. You can lift and slide it, but when you set it down, that's your only choice.  You can't  turn the handle to adjust it that last fraction of an inch. It's frozen in place. For example If you need to cut flanken style ribs 3/8", it will set at 1/2 inch and you can't dial it in closer. So what do you do? Go to the Biro. Turn it on and the blade comes off. The 3rd Biro, we don't even try to use anymore. My company (who I'm not going to identify in writing) is way too cheap to get these things fixed. 



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BANDSAW BOB


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OK so  we’re past the easy stuff on the Biro.  Next   Does your saw make a loud bang when you turn it on ?  If it does there could be a loose connection inside the switch box on the motor starter or the overload protector. Screws vibrate loose during shipping and should be tightened up during installation, this is not always done.  If that is not the case the next thing to do would be to take off the upper guide and the lower cleaning unit so the blade is just on the 2 wheels and the lower guide  turn the saw on  if the blade doesn’t  jump   then either the upper guide or the lower back up block is too far forward  pushing the blade to the front    If you still have a problem  then check your blade tension   with the blade off the head should move freely all the way up and down  if you have a ratchet assembly on the r/s   not an issue with fixed head saws   Check ratchet assembly for wear  gears fully engaged   no dimple on top where the tension pin sits    check the tension indicator  small tab at bottom of head  just above ratchet   with blade tight  you should not be able to move this from side to side   if you can you might have a broken tension spring inside the head.   The head assembly should not rock back and forth when the blade is off.   Whew  that was a lot   hope it was clear  sometimes I ramble on   lol

As for the Hobart   that is an old style meat gauge assembly  sounds like a 5216 saw  128” blade  or a 14 series   The problem is that the worm gear that engages the slide rod is not turning    I’m guessing you already tried oiling the part with no results    Here are some things to check   not just for you   but for anyone with a Hobart    Does the handle turn but not the shaft ?  Loosen up the set screw on the knob and remove it   check to see if the set screw is lined up with the flat part of the shaft  check if the shaft turns   check that the worm gear is not worn out     and does it fully seat into the grooves on the slide rod   with power to the saw off   bang on the meat gauge  as if pushing a large piece of meat against it     checking to see if it holds securely in place  if it moves or jumps   It needs to be repaired ASAP   it could slip when cutting  without warning       clean out any built up residue in the grooves   Still having a problem  then the meat gauge sub assembly/ worm bracket assembly    needs to be replaced    This is done by removing the mounting pin that goes through the gauge plate  the worm bracket assembly and back into the gauge plate assembly  sometimes has an allen head screw on each end      if the pin does not come out easily  you may need to replace the entire meat gauge assembly   it’s a soft casting and if you try to force it or hit it too hard it could break

Most large chains have service agreements with repair companies  request a service call if needed    at least report the problems to someone responsible  and document  who and when   

Hope this helps   



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Burgermeister


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BANDSAW BOB wrote:

OK so  we’re past the easy stuff on the Biro.  Next   Does your saw make a loud bang when you turn it on ?  If it does there could be a loose connection inside the switch box on the motor starter or the overload protector. Screws vibrate loose during shipping and should be tightened up during installation, this is not always done.  If that is not the case the next thing to do would be to take off the upper guide and the lower cleaning unit so the blade is just on the 2 wheels and the lower guide  turn the saw on  if the blade doesn’t  jump   then either the upper guide or the lower back up block is too far forward  pushing the blade to the front    If you still have a problem  then check your blade tension   with the blade off the head should move freely all the way up and down  if you have a ratchet assembly on the r/s   not an issue with fixed head saws   Check ratchet assembly for wear  gears fully engaged   no dimple on top where the tension pin sits    check the tension indicator  small tab at bottom of head  just above ratchet   with blade tight  you should not be able to move this from side to side   if you can you might have a broken tension spring inside the head.   The head assembly should not rock back and forth when the blade is off.   Whew  that was a lot   hope it was clear  sometimes I ramble on   lol

As for the Hobart   that is an old style meat gauge assembly  sounds like a 5216 saw  128” blade  or a 14 series   The problem is that the worm gear that engages the slide rod is not turning    I’m guessing you already tried oiling the part with no results    Here are some things to check   not just for you   but for anyone with a Hobart    Does the handle turn but not the shaft ?  Loosen up the set screw on the knob and remove it   check to see if the set screw is lined up with the flat part of the shaft  check if the shaft turns   check that the worm gear is not worn out     and does it fully seat into the grooves on the slide rod   with power to the saw off   bang on the meat gauge  as if pushing a large piece of meat against it     checking to see if it holds securely in place  if it moves or jumps   It needs to be repaired ASAP   it could slip when cutting  without warning       clean out any built up residue in the grooves   Still having a problem  then the meat gauge sub assembly/ worm bracket assembly    needs to be replaced    This is done by removing the mounting pin that goes through the gauge plate  the worm bracket assembly and back into the gauge plate assembly  sometimes has an allen head screw on each end      if the pin does not come out easily  you may need to replace the entire meat gauge assembly   it’s a soft casting and if you try to force it or hit it too hard it could break

Most large chains have service agreements with repair companies  request a service call if needed    at least report the problems to someone responsible  and document  who and when   

Hope this helps   

 Wow Bandsaw Bob, you sure know a lot about bandsaws! Thanks for the suggestions.



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rumproast


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What I have found when you are working with old worn out saws is that you have store manager or meat manager that is more worried about his bonus than your safety. Parts can be changed to make that saw like new. As a meat manager we have the responsibility to keep our cutters safe that is part of the job. Get your store manager today not tomorrow and document it if its not fixed call your meat god and let him know also document it. You and your cutters have the right to a safe work place.

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Mark Duncan
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If I make sure the blade is set back on our Biro I've never had it come off. Every once in a while I get someone who over does it with mineral oil and they have to fight with it a few times. I've only had one major repair on the two we have the whole time I've been at my location (4 years). The repair guy said they are easy to work on and use the same parts they did in the 50s. I think if your company weren't so cheap that those saws would be fine with some TLC.

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